Participants of the event will exchange views on how to further boost the Sino-US business ties and promote textile trade between the two countries

Amid escalating tensions over Chinese textile exports, from the May 23 to 25 the international textile fair will be held in Hangzhou, a city in East China's Zhejiang Province, reports Fiber2Fashion.com from Ministry of Commerce-China.

Attendees at the fair will include 72 US and European textile buyers, 15 representatives from the US textile and clothing industry association and officials from US customs. About 500 business executives and representatives from 90 Chinese textile and clothing enterprises will also be present.

The fair is sponsored by the Hangzhou Sub-Council of the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) and US trade show organizer C-ME company.

According to Chen Xin, director of the exhibition department of CCPIT Hangzhou sub-council, "The fair is likely to help pave a smoother way for Chinese textile exports." Participants will exchange views on how to further boost the Sino-US business ties and promote textile trade between the two countries, he added.

Cotton quotations in New York had moved continuously upwards in the week under report. However, this situation did not reflect the development of the physical cotton market. But that had indeed little to do with the development of the actual market.

The prices for effective cotton could not follow the trend to the same extent. Demand by the spinning mills was directed on short term supply and new closed contracts comprised just limited quantities. Delivery was mainly fixed for the 2nd quarter and for the 3rd quarter after the works holidays.

In the Upland range turnovers were registered in Central Asian sorts for dates in the 2nd quarter and in the 3rd quarter 2009; West African styles and Greek descriptions for the 2nd quarter 2009.

The Apparel Clothing & Garments Companies Directory lists the Manufacturers and wholesale supplier companies dealing in various sectors of clothing such as mens clothing, womens clothing, kids clothing, infant wear, sports wear etc. With the Industry going global, the Manufacturers and Suppliers do not have to limit themselves within any boundary. The Companies from varied countries join hands in order to meet the ever expanding demands of the consumers worldwide. In such a situation, a vast resource of Apparel and Garment Industry becomes indispensable. This Directory also includes the categories as diverse as clothing by fabrics, fashion clothing, industrial clothing, and animal clothing.

CUTTING THE PATTERN AND FABRIC

After your pattern is correctly fitted, you are ready to make your pants. Your first step will be to read the pattern guide sheet and study the pattern layout. After you are familiar with the pattern, carefully follow the instructions given on the guide sheet.

Cut out your pattern only after the fabric has been prewashed or preshrunk. Prewashing allows the fabric to relax and removes excess fabric resins that can cause problems as you sew.

Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric as the pattern guide sheet layout suggests. Be sure to follow the "with nap" layout if your fabric has nap.

After the pattern has been cut, take time to press a crease in the front of each pants leg if required. Use the pattern markings to determine where the creases should be. Stop the crease at the crotch. To ensure a firm crease, use a damp cloth and steam. Remember, it is difficult to remove creases set in synthetic fabric, so be sure to get them in the right places.

PANTS CONSTRUCTION

Follow the guide sheet as you sew the pants. The order will generally be as follows: stay-stitching, seam finishes (if necessary), darts, inner and side leg seams, crotch seam, zipper, waistband, and hems.

Fitting Your Pants

After the pants have been sewn together, but before the zipper is applied, try on your pants. Pin the opening and tie a string snugly around your waistline to hold the pants up (fig. 7).

Observing the fit in a full-length mirror, adjust the pants from the waistline until the legs hang straight and the crotch is comfortably positioned. Be sure the positions of the grainline and darts are correct. Then mark the waistline directly under the string and determine the amount the darts and side seams need to be taken in or let out to achieve a good fit at the waistline.

If you make any changes, mark them on the pattern so it will be correct the next time you use it.

Pressing

Press as you sew to achieve the best results. Press the seams open, using steam to keep them flat. To prevent the seams from creating an impression on the right side, place a piece of paper under the seam allowance as it is pressed.

ALTERING YOUR PATTERN

Waistline

To increase: Add 1/4 the total alteration required at each side seam. (Fig. 8)

To decrease: Remove 1/4 of the total alteration required at each side seam. (Fig. 9)

Leg Shape

To increase leg circumference: Place a piece of paper under the front and back pattern pieces. Add 1/4 the total increase to the inseam and outer seam of both front and back pieces. To do this, mark the addition outside the cutting lines at the hemline. Redraw cutting lines from marks at hemline, tapering to original cutting line at the desired point.

To decrease leg circumference: Remove 1/4 the total decrease from the inseam and outer seam of both front and back pieces. To do this, mark the decrease inside the cutting lines at the hemline. Redraw the cutting lines from the marks at the hemline, tapering to the original cutting line at the desired point.

Length

To increase: Cut the pattern apart on length adjustment lines. Place tissue paper under pattern and spread the amount needed, keeping edges parallel. Pin or tape in place. Redraw seams and cutting lines.

To decrease: Measure the amount needed up from length adjustment lines and draw a line. Fold pattern on adjustment line and bring up to drawn line. Pin or tape in place. Redraw seams and cutting lines.

Crotch Depth

To lengthen: Cut pattern apart on adjustment line. Place tissue paper under cut areas and spread pattern needed amount, keeping edges parallel. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting and seam lines. (Fig. 10)

To shorten crotch depth: Measure the amount needed up from adjustment line and draw a line across pattern. Fold pattern along adjustment line and bring it up to drawn line. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting and seam lines. (Fig. 11)

Crotch Length

To lengthen: Add to front and/or back inner leg seams by extending seam at crotch point. Redraw crotch curve from adjustment line to new crotch point on inner leg seam. Redraw inseam from new crotch point to the knee. (Fig. 12)

To shorten: Mark amount needed inside cutting line on front and/or back inner leg seams. Redraw crotch curve from adjustment line to new crotch point on inner leg seam. Redraw inseam from new crotch point to the knee. (Fig. 13)

Hips

To increase: Pin or tape tissue paper under front and back pattern pieces along side seams. On both front and back pieces, mark 1/4 the total increase outside cutting lines along side seams. Draw new seam line. Adjust waistline as needed to achieve correct size. (Fig. 14)

To decrease: On both front and back pieces, mark 1/4 the total decrease inside cutting lines along side seams. Adjust waistline as needed to achieve correct size. Redraw seamline and trim off excess pattern paper. (Fig. 15)

Thighs

To increase: Pin or tape tissue paper under front and back pattern pieces along both inseams and outer seams. Mark 1/4 the total addition along the side seams and inseams outside the cutting lines. Draw new cutting line through markings along side seam from hip, tapering into original cutting line near hem. On inseam, start new cutting line at crotch point and redraw cutting line, tapering back to original cutting line near hem. (Fig. 16)

To decrease: On both front and back pattern pieces, mark 1/4 the total decrease inside cutting lines of side seams and inseams. On the side seams, draw new cutting line through markings from hip, tapering to original cutting line near hem. On inseams, redraw new cutting line beginning at crotch point, tapering to original cutting line near hem. (Fig. 17)

Abdomen (Adjust pants front pattern piece only.)

To increase: Draw a line parallel to the grainline through the center of waist dart from waist to hem. Draw a horizontal line about 3-4" below waistline from center front to side. Cut pattern apart on lines, then place paper under pattern. On the horizontal slash, spread the pattern the necessary amount at center front and taper to no spread at side seam. Spread vertical cut 1/2 the total increase, tapering to no spread at hem. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting lines, seamlines, and darts as needed. (Fig. 18)

Buttocks (Adjust pants back pattern piece only.)

To increase: Draw a line parallel to grainline through center of waist dart to hem. At hipline, draw a horizontal line across pattern from center back to side. Cut pattern apart on lines, then place paper under pattern. On the horizontal line, spread the pattern the necessary amount from center back, tapering to no spread at sideseam. Spread vertical cut 1/2 the total increase, tapering to nothing at hem. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting lines, seamlines, and darts as needed. (Fig. 19)

To decrease buttocks: Draw a line parallel to grainline through center of waist dart to hem. Just above the hipline, draw a horizontal line from center back to side. Along the horizontal line, fold a tuck to remove the desired amount at center back, tapering to no tuck at side. Along the vertical line, fold a tuck to remove 1/2 the desired decrease. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting lines, seamlines, and darts as needed (Fig. 20).

1.Waist.

2. High hip (3" down at side).

3. Hip at fullest part (7-9" below waist).

4. Distance at side from waist down to fullest part of hip.

5. Pant length (waist to floor).

6. Thigh at fullest part.

7. Knee (1" above center).

8. Distance to knee from waist.

9. Crotch depth. Sit on a flat surface and measure from waist to surface on side. (Fig. 4)


10. Crotch length. Measure from center front waist through crotch to center back waist. Mark the measurement from the front waist to the center of your body and the measurement from back waist to the center of your body. (Fig. 5)


After you have calculated your measurements plus "ease," compare these measurements to your pattern measurements.
Measure Pattern

Measure your pattern at the places indicated in fig. 6 and record.

S Place the measuring tape flat across pattern for all straight measurements.

S Stand tape on edge for all measurements that are on a curve.

S Do not include darts or seam allowances in any of the measurements.

S Record these measurements on the measurement chart.

PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART Fill in with a pencil
	You	+ Ease1	=Total	Pattern	Change ( + )
1. Waist		1/2-1"
2. High hip 3" down from waist at side		1/4-1"
3. Hip at fullest part		2"
4. Distance from waist to full hip at side		0
5. Pant length at side (waist to floor)		for hem
6. Thigh width at fullest part		1"
7. Knee width 1" above center of knee		depends on style
8. Distance to knee at side		0
9. Crotch depth2 sitting		1/2-3/4"
10. Crotch length back		1/2-3/4"
11. Crotch length front		1/2-3/4"
1 Ease is for comfort. It varies with style, fabric, and how you wear your clothes. 2 Alter crotch depth on pattern first, as it affects crotch length.

Compare the measurements of your body plus ease to the pattern measurements and record any differences . If differences occur, you must alter your pattern to achieve a good fit. Techniques for altering your pattern are found below in the section "Altering Your Pattern."

Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles Specialist
College of Agriculture, Consumer and Environmental Sciences New Mexico State University
This publication is scheduled to be updated and reissued 6/06.

Women's fashions come and go, but pants are here to stay. Although the basic shape may change from season to season, pants have become a favorite fashion for women of all ages and for all kinds of activities.

Every woman who wears pants wants them to look good and feel comfortable when she stands, sits, and walks. Three key factors contribute to successful dressing in pants: style, fabric, and fit.
KEYS TO SUCCESSFUL PANTS
Style

The first key is knowing which pants styles to avoid and which styles to use with your figure type. Pants styles fall into three basic silhouettes-fitted, straight, and flared. The silhouette you select should be flattering to your figure type.

Seams, darts, gathers, and pleats may be used to shape the silhouette and create a horizontal or vertical illusion in the pants design. Other design details include pockets, yokes, trim of any kind, and the waistline treatment. Select pants that have a flattering silhouette as well as flattering design features.
Follow these basic guidelines for selecting a flattering pant style:

S Shorter-than-average figures look taller when pants and top are the same color.

S A tall person looks shorter if the pants and top are different colors or textures.

S Wide legs create an illusion of fullness.

S Fitted legs are unflattering for the too-thin as well as for the too-full figure.

S Flared legs are flattering to tall, slender figures.

S Straight legs are a good choice for the figure with full thighs or a prominent derriere.

S Gathers or pleats at the waistline emphasize a protruding abdomen.

S If you have a very curvy figure, select a style that has two waistline darts on each side of center front and back. Avoid a side zipper opening.

S Avoid hip-hugger styles if you have full thighs and/or prominent hips.
Fabric Selection

The second key to attractive pants is correct fabric selection. Denim, sports cloth, corduroy, velveteen, gabardine, and a variety of medium-weight blends are suitable for pants. The fabric should be firmly woven to hold its shape and wear well. It should drape over the figure gracefully and should have good wrinkle resistance. Knits are usually a good choice for comfort, but the weight of the knit determines its success as a pants fabric. Avoid soft, clingy knits for most pants fashions-they emphasize figure flaws.

Consider fabric texture and design carefully. Some textured fabrics will be scratchy and require a lining; others will be too bulky for pants.

Select plaids and prints with color and size of plaid or print in mind. The appropriateness of a printed fabric for pants should also be considered.

White and light-colored fabrics may require a lining or underlining to prevent undergarments and seam allowances from showing through. Be certain the fabric selected for lining or underlining has the same care requirements as the fashion fabric.
Fit

Fit is the third key to pants comfort and attractive appearance. Pants should fit comfortably at the waistline and fall smoothly over the hips and thighs. In well-fitted pants, the lengthwise grainline is perpendicular to the floor and creases in the legs are on the straight grain. Pants length will vary according to the silhouette.

Some problems to avoid when making (or buying) pants include:

S Ripples at the waistline.

S Wrinkles at the crotch.

S Bagginess at the crotch.

S Waistline pulling down at center back or center front.

S Pressed creases that hang off-grain.

Avoid pants that are too tight. Not only are they uncomfortable, but they also accentuate figure flaws.

SELECTING A PATTERN SIZE

If you are making pants for the first time (or for the hundredth time), the pattern size you select will be important in altering the pattern for an attractive fit. Because fit at the hip is difficult to alter, select a pattern size according to measurements at the fullest part of your hips, usually 8-9" below the waistline.
FITTING YOUR PATTERN

Because patterns are designed for standard figures and because most of us are not very "standard" in size or shape, always fit your pattern before cutting. You will also need to fit the pattern because patterns vary in fit from design to design as well as from one brand of pattern to another.

What is your figure type? Some figures are full from front to back; others are wide from side to side. Some are round in front, while others are round in back. Your posture also contributes to your figure type. Because figure types vary, be aware of your own variations to help you fit your pants more successfully.

To determine your figure variations, stand in front of a full-length mirror and study your figure.

Posture Type (Fig. 1)
Check the one that looks most like you.

Average. Stands fairly straight. Side seams of pants fall straight and are lined up with the ankle.

Forward-tilted hip. Stands in somewhat slouched manner; fairly flat, low seat, and a high prominent roll below the front waist or high prominent hip bones. This posture causes pants to sag under the seat unless the pattern is altered.
Backward-tilted hip. Stands with tummy lower and posterior out and up. Pants hike up over the seat if the pattern crotch length is not corrected.

Hip Type (Fig. 2)

Check the one that looks most like you.

Average hip. No excessive roundness directly below the waist at sides or back. There is no great sidethigh prominence. The greatest circumference measurement is at the seat level, usually 7-9" below waist.

Little difference. Little difference between hip and waist measurement; generally doesn't have curves below the waist.

Heart hip. Great roundness just below the waist. The upper hip measurement taken 3-4" below the waist will be larger than the measurement at the seat level.

Semi-heart hip. Curves below the waistline may not appear to be as extreme as the heart shape. The lower hip circumference may be the same or up to 1 1/2" more than the measurements taken 3-4" below the waistline. There is no thigh prominence.

Diamond hip. Great thigh prominence at the side. The difference between the waist and lower hip measurements is 11 1/2" or more.

Rounded diamond hip. Great prominence at the sides as well as curves just below the waistline. This sometimes makes the difference between the waist and hip much less than a standard diamond.After determining your figure variations, take your measurements and compare them with the measurements of your pattern. Measure over the undergarments you will wear with the pants. Have someone help you take the measurements listed on the following chart.

Testing was performed on card slivers because of the intimate blend between the two bales composing the mix at this stage. As expected, sugar contents and highspeed stickiness detector readings on the mixes indicated slight to moderate stickiness. During the processing of the 17 mixes, sticky deposits were noticed on the textile equipment, as shown in Figs. 2 to 4. Figure 5a shows average high-performance liquid chromatography results obtained on the 17 mixes for the fiber, the flat waste, and the residues collected on the draw frame and the drawing zone of the ring spinning frame. In this figure, the high performance liquid chromatography results are
normalized, the base being the high-performance liquid chromatography results on the fiber. It shows that trehalulose content is always higher in the residues collected than on the original fiber while the other sugars are not. The same behavior was observed in rotor spinning (Fig. 5b).
Fig. 5. Normalized high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) results averaged for fiber and flat waste on 17 mixes and residues collected from the draw frame and drawing zone of the ring spinning frame (a) and from the draw frame of the rotor spinning frame (b). Base used for normalization was HPLC results from fiber. A, card flat; B, draw frame - drafting zone; C, ring spinning frame - back rubber rolls; D, ring spinning frame - back steel rolls; E, ring spinning frame - belt; F, ring spinning frame - center rubber rolls; G, ring spinning frame - front rubber rolls; H, ring spinning frame - front steel rolls; I, rotor spinning frame - face plate; J, rotor spinning frame - feed table; K, rotor spinning frame - rotor groove; L, rotor spinning frame - rotor housing; M, rotor spinning frame - rotor ledge; N, dust test.

Among the sugars identified in contaminated cotton, only trehalulose exhibits higher concentration in the residues. Coefficients of correlation between the logarithms of the percentage of each individual sugar, expressed as a percentage of total sugars identified on the fiber, and the percentage of each individual sugar, expressed as a percentage of the total sugars on the flat strips and residues collected, are shown in Table 4.

Table 4. Coefficients of correlation (r)between the logarithms of sugar content on the fiber and on the flat strips and residues collected on textile equipment. Specific sugars (fructose, glucose, melezitose, sucrose, and trehalulose) are expressed as a percentage of total sugars. Codes denote: A) card flat; B) draw frame – drafting zone; C) ring spinning frame - back rubber rolls; D) ring spinning frame - back steel rolls; E) ring spinning frame - belt; F) ring spinning frame - center rubber rolls; G ) ring spinning frame - front rubber rolls; H) ring spinning frame - front steel rolls; I) rotor spinning fframe - face plate; J) rotor spinning frame - feed table; K) rotor spinning frame - rotor groove; L) rotor spinning frame - rotor housing; M) rotor spinning frame - rotor ledge; N) dust test.

Sucrose is virtually the only sugar in the phloem sap of the cotton plant . Insects produce trehalulose and melezitose by isomerization and polymerization of sucrose; neither of these sugars occurs in the cotton plant . Therefore, their presence on cotton lint demonstrates honeydew contamination. Stickiness can cause a build-up of residues on the textile machinery, which may result in irregularities or excessive yarn breakage. When cotton is very sticky, it cannot be processed through the card; however, with low to moderate stickiness levels, yarn can generally be produced. For this reason we decided to work with mixes having a very moderate level of stickiness so that residue would build-up slowly on the textile equipment. Performing the spinning test this way is more representative of industrial practice. Indeed, a spinner will not run a very, or even moderately, sticky blend. Rather, the spinner will mix the sticky cotton in such a way that no short-term effect will be noticed. Nevertheless, residues will build up over time and translate into a slow decrease in productivity and quality, forcing the spinner to increase the cleaning schedule. In this article, we present only the results of the study on the composition of residues found on the textile equipment after processing of sticky cotton blends.

The productivity and yarn quality analysis will be presented in a future article. With trehalulose content ranging from 0.003% to 0.188% and melezitose content ranging from 0.025% to 0.227% (Table 1), the 12 commercial bales selected were all contaminated with insect honeydew to some degree.
This was confirmed by the high-speed stickiness detector readings ranging from 1.9 to 69.9 sticky points. The fiber properties of the 12 contaminated bales and of the non-sticky control are presented in Table 2.The range of fiber properties is fairly typical for upland cottons. From the 12 contaminated and the five nonsticky bales, 17 mixes were evaluated. The spinning trials were performed using the protocol outlined in Fig. 1. The high-performance liquid chromatography and high-speed stickiness detector results obtained on the card slivers are presented in Table 3.

Aphids are slow-moving, soft-bodied insects. Adult cotton aphids are approximately 1/10 of an inch long and roughly pear shaped. They may possess wings or may be wingless. Cotton aphids have two color phases: yellowish or dark green.

The cotton aphid has two projections which arise from the upper side of the abdomen. These small tubes are called cornicles and are used to excrete defensive secretions.

Both the adult and immature stages (called nymphs) of the cotton aphid have stylet like mouthparts, which they use to suck juices from the host plant. Consequently, cotton aphids are sometimes referred to as plant lice

FIG:cotton Aphid


The cotton aphid, Aphis gossypii, excretes honeydew rich in melezitose (ca. 30–40%). Their droplets (inset, 50X) tend to be larger than those produced by whiteflies.

FIG: Whitefly


Whiteflies, Bemisia spp., also excrete honeydew, but as trehalulose-rich (ca. 40–50%) droplets (inset, 50X).

Stickiness occurs when excessive sugars present on fibers are transferred to equipment and interfere with processing. Sugars may be insect- or plant-derived. Though sugars are ubiquitous in lint, they usually occur at levels that pose no processing difficulties. This details the sources and components of problem sugars on harvested lint, the processing impacts of stickiness, and strategies for avoiding or mitigating stickiness.

Cottons contaminated with stickiness cause multiple problems in the spinning mills. The honeydew present on the cotton lint is able to contaminate all the mechanical instruments used in the transformation process from fiber to yarn, i.e. opening,carding, drawing, roving and spinning operations. These contaminants are mainly sugar deposits produced either by the cotton plant itself (physiological sugars) or by the feeding insects (entomological sugars), the latter being the most common source of contamination.

Honeydew, when present in sufficient quantity, is the main source of sugars that can result in sticky lint. Honeydew is excreted by certain phloem-feeding insects including such common pests of cotton as aphids and whiteflies. These insects are capable of transforming ingested sucrose into over twenty different sugars in their excreted honeydew. The major sugars in cotton insect honeydew are trehalulose, melezitose, sucrose, fructose and glucose.

Another source of stickiness is free plant sugars sometimes found in immature fibers. Cotton fiber is largely cellulose that is formed from sugars synthesized by the plant. Dry, mature cotton fibers contain little free sugar, while immature cotton fibers contain glucose, fructose, sucrose, and other sugars. If immature cotton fiber is subjected to a freeze, complex sugars may be broken down to release additional simple sugars. Less commonly, oils released by crushed seed coat fragments can also result in stickiness. In this case, raffinose is the characteristic sugar.

Sugars differ in their stickiness. For example, sucrose, melezitose, and trehalulose are all significantly stickier when deposited on fiber than are glucose or fructose. Further, trehalulose-contaminated fiber is stickier than fiber with an equivalent amount of melezitose. Mixtures of sugars, such as occur in honeydew, tend to be stickier than single sugars. Localized concentration of sugars like honeydew is at higher risk of causing stickiness than more evenly distributed sources like plant sugars.

Sticky cotton can reduce cotton gin output (in bales/hr) by up to 25%. At the textile mill, excessive wear and increased maintenance of machinery may occur even with slightly sticky cotton. In severe instances mill shutdown with a thorough cleanup is required.

Eventhough, the long and short fibres both contribute towards the length irregularity of cotton, the short fibres are particularly responsible for increasing the waste losses, and cause unevenness and reduction in strength in the yarn spun. The relative proportions of short fibres are usually different in cottons having different mean lengths; they may even differ in two cottons having nearly the same mean fibre length, rendering one cotton more irregular than the other.It is therefore important that in addition to the fibre length of a cotton, the degree of irregularity of its length should also be known. Variability is denoted by any one of the following attributes

1. Co-efficient of variation of length (by weight or number)
2. irregularity percentage
3. Dispersion percentage and percentage of short fibres
4. Uniformity ratio

Uniformity ratio is defined as the ratio of 50% span length to 2.5% span length expressed as a percentage. Several instruments and methods are available for determination of length. Following are some

* shirley comb sorter
* Baer sorter
* A.N. Stapling apparatus
* Fibrograph

uniformity ration = (50% span length / 2.5% span length) x 100
uniformity index = (mean length / upper half mean length) x 100

The "length" of cotton fibres is a property of commercial value as the price is generally based on this character. To some extent it is true, as other factors being equal, longer cottons give better spinning performance than shorter ones. But the length of a cotton is an indefinite quantity, as the fibres, even in a small random bunch of a cotton, vary enormously in length. Following are the various measures of length in use in different countries

* mean length
* upper quartile
* effective length
* Modal length
* 2.5% span length
* 50% span length

Mean length:
It is the estimated quantity which theoretically signifies the arithmetic mean of the length of all the fibres present in a small but representative sample of the cotton. This quantity can be an average according to either number or weight.

Upper quartile length:
It is that value of length for which 75% of all the observed values are lower, and 25% higher.

Effective length:
It is difficult to give a clear scientific definition. It may be defined as the upper quartile of a
numerical length distribution
eliminated by an arbitrary construction. The fibres eliminated are shorter than half the effective length.

Modal length:
It is the most frequently occurring length of the fibres in the sample and it is related to mean and median for skew distributions, as exhibited by fibre length, in the follwing way.


(Mode-Mean) = 3(Median-Mean)

where,
Median is the particular value of length above and below which exactly 50% of the fibres lie.

2.5% Span length:
It is defined as the distance spanned by 2.5% of fibres in the specimen being tested when the fibres are parallelized and randomly distributed and where the initial starting point of the scanning in the test is considered 100%. This length is measured using "DIGITAL FIBROGRAPH".

50% Span length:
It is defined as the distance spanned by 50% of fibres in the specimen being tested when the fibres are parallelized and randomly distributed and where the initial starting point of the scanning in the test is considered 100%. This length is measured using "DIGITAL FIBROGRAPH".

The South India Textile Research Association (SITRA) gives the following empirical relationships to estimate the Effective Length and Mean Length from the Span Lengths.

Effective length = 1.013 x 2.5% Span length + 4.39
Mean length = 1.242 x 50% Span length + 9.78

The resistance offered to the flow of air through a plug of fibres is dpendent upon the specific surface area of the fibres. Fineness tester have been evolved on this principle for determininG fineness of cotton. The specific surface area which determines the flow of air through a cotton plug, is dependent not only upon the linear density of the fibres in the sample but also upon their maturity. Hence the micronaire readings have to be treated with caution particularly when testing samples varying widely in maturity.

In the micronaire instrument, a weighed quantity of 3.24 gms of well opened cotton sample is compressed into a cylindrical container of fixed dimensions. Compressed air is forced through the sample, at a definite pressure and the volume-rate of flow of air is measured by a rotometer type flowmeter. The sample for Micronaire test should be well opened cleaned and thoroughly mixed( by hand fluffing and opening method). Out of the various air-flow instruments, the Micronaire is robust in construction, easy to operate and presents little difficulty as regards its maintenance.

Fibre fineness is another important quality characteristic which plays a prominent part in determining the spinning value of cottons. If the same count of yarn is spun from two varieties of cotton, the yarn spun from the variety having finer fibres will have a larger number of fibres in its cross-section and hence it will be more even and strong than that spun from the sample with coarser fibres.

Fineness denotes the size of the cross-section dimensions of the fibre. AS the cross-sectional features of cotton fibres are irregular, direct determination of the area of croo-section is difficult and laborious. The Index of fineness which is more commonly used is the linear density or weight per unit length of the fibre. The unit in which this quantity is expressed varies in different parts of the world. The common unit used by many countries for cotton is microgrammes per inch and the various air-flow instruments developed for measuring fibre fineness are calibrated in this unit.

Following are some methods of determining fibre fineness.

* gravimetric or dimensional measurements
* air-flow method
* vibrating string method

Some of the above methods are applicable to single fibres while the majority of them deal with a mass of fibres. As there is considerable variation in the linear density from fibre to fibre, even amongst fibres of the same seed, single fibre methods are time-consuming and laborious as a large number of fibres have to be tested to get a fairly reliable average value.

It should be pointed out here that most of the fineness determinations are likely to be affected by fibre maturity, which is an another important characteristic of cotton fibres.

Edited by S C O Ugbolue, University of Massachusetts, USA
Woodhead Textiles

- reviews the most important polyolefins including polyethylene and polyproplene, their structural and chemical properties as well as production methods
- examines methods to improve the functionality of polyolefin fibres including production methods and quality control

Polyolefins are one of the most widely used commercial polymers. This book reviews the most important polyolefins, including polyethylene and polypropylene. These versatile fibres are durable, chemically resistant, lightweight, economical and functional. Polyolefin fibres: industrial and medical applications provides a comprehensive review of the structure and properties of this group of fibres, together with methods to improve the functionality of polyolefins and their range of applications.

The first set of chapters discusses the different types of polyolefins, their structural and chemical properties as well as their production methods. The second group of chapters examines how to improve the functionality of polyolefin fibres. A final group of chapters addresses how polyolefins can be incorporated into specific applications such as industrial, medical and automotive products.

Written by a distinguished team of international contributors, Polyolefin fibres: industrial and medical applications is a quintessential reference for textile technologists, fibre scientists, yarn and fabric manufacturers and also those in academia.

The blow room line consists of the following machines:

Machines for the pick up and feeding of the fibres

* Superblender

B12N

* Manual feeder for big lots

B14N

* Manual feeder for small lots and waste

B15N

* Manual feeder for small lots and waste with integrated opener

B15N+B18N

* Weighing feeder for intimated blending

B13 N

* Blending lattice for weighing feeder

B23N
* Machines for mixing the fibres

* High capacity automixer

B143N

* Feeding fan for automixer

B152N

* Mixer for small lots

B142N

Opening and cleaning machines

* Duocleaner

B39N

* Dust Separator for B39N

B45N

* Horizontal opener with one beater

B38N

* Horizontal opener with three beaters

B37N

* Horizontal opener for man-made fibres

B134N

* Cage condenser for B38N-B37N-B134N openers

B44N

Machines for the cards chute feeding

* Feeding system to the cards line

B44N+B151N

* Motor fan and duct for cards feeding

B151N
Auxiliary materials for the blow room line

* Fire prevention system on pipe for fibres transportation

FIRE

* Metal detector on pipe for fibres transportation

METAL

* Combined system for fire prevention and metal detector

COMBO

* Two ways automatic deviator

B926N

* T-distributor to divide the feeding to a carding line

B550N

* Manual deviator with movable closure for the flexible feeding of the carding line

B928N

* Two-way automatic deviator for superblender

B929N

* Mouthpiece with permanent magnet

B214N

* Heavy parts separator

B176N

* Control panel and drive of the blow room line

B95N

Program Goal:
The department of Textile Engineering offers the program of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering. The program is designed to satisfy the growing demands of Textile engineering throughout the country and to produce skilled manpower for global IT market. It provides the students an opportunity to obtain a broad knowledge of Textile Engineering, Manufacturing Engineering, Electrical Engineering, Computer Systems Engineering, Electronics Engineering and Textile Management. The central goal is the generation of competent textile engineering graduates to meet the up - warding demand for the arena in both domestic and abroad textiles as well as clothing.

Eligibility for Admission
Minimum second division or 2.5 GPA in both SSC and HSC from Science group with Mathematics &
Physics/Chemistry/Computer Studies or Diploma in Engineering (Textile/Chemical/Electrical
/Mechanical/Power/Computer) or equivalent may apply for admission into Textile Engineering.
Students with English medium background are encouraged to apply for admission. For them 5 subjects in ‘O’ level and 2 subjects in ‘A’ level with minimum GPA 2.5 in each level or equivalent is required.

Academic Session
Academic Session for all undergraduate programs extends over a period of 4 (four) academic years. One academic year is divided into three semesters beginning from January. Each semester is of 15 weeks duration with 13 weeks for class teaching, 1 week break for examination preparatory leave, and 1week for conducting examinations.

Total credits requirement and duration of the program
To obtain B. Sc. in Textile Engineering (TE) program students will have to complete 151 credit hours. B. Sc. in Textile Engineering program is 4 (four) years duration into 12 semesters as shown below:

Year	Semester 1	Semester 2	Semester 3	Total
	Credit hrs	Credit hrs	Credit hrs	Credit hrs
1	13	14	13	40
2	14	11	1 3	38
3	1 1	13	13	37
4	10	14	12	36
Total				151

Graduation
To obtain the B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (TE) degree a student will have to complete 151 credit hours with a minimum CGPA 2.00. If any student fails in any course s/he will get the opportunity to improve the grade by retaking the same in the subsequent semester.

Course Title

Course Code	Course Title	Total Credit hours (Theory + Pract.)
First Year First Semester
TE- 101	Introduction to Textile Engineering	(3+0) = 3
ENG-102	English	(3+0) = 3
PHY- 103	Physics – I with lab	(3+1) = 4
MATH- 104	Mathematics-I	(3+0) = +3
Total		13
First Year Second Semester
CHEM- 105	Chemistry with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 106	Engineering Drawing	(0+3) = 3
TE- 107	Polymer Science	(3+0) = 3
PHY-108	Physics- II with lab	(3+1) = 4
Total		14
First Year Third Semester
TE- 109	Textile Raw Materials	(3+0) = 3
TE- 110	Engineering Material & Practices	(2+2) = 4
MATH- 111	Mathematics-II (Differential Equations)	(3+0) = 3
CSE-112	Computer Fundamentals with lab	(1+2) = 3
Total		13
Second Year First Semester
TE- 201	Textile Chemistry	(3+0) = 3
MATH- 202	Mathematics-III	(3+0) = 3
TE- 203	Yarn Manufacturing – I with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 204	Fabric Manufacturing – I with lab	(3+1) = 4
Total		14
Second Year Second Semester
TE-205	Textile Coloration – I with lab	(3+1) = 4
CSE-206	Basic Electrical and Electronic Engineering with lab	(2+1) = 3
TE- 207	Fabric Design and Analysis with lab	(3+1) = 4
Total		11
Second Year Third Semester
TE- 208	Apparel Manufacturing – I with lab	(3+1) = 4
BUS 209	Business Statistics	(3+0) = 3
CSE- 210	Computer Programming & Graphics with lab	(2+1) = 3
TE- 211	Textile Production Evaluation-I with lab	(2+1) = 3
Total		13
Third Year First Semester
TE-301	Yarn Manufacturing – II with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE –302	Fabric Manufacturing – II with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 303	Manufacturing Engineering with lab	(2+1) = 3
Total		11
Third Year Second Semester
TE- 304	Textile Coloration -II with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 305	Textile Physics	(3+0) = 3
TE- 306	Elements of Machine Dynamics & Design	(3+0) = 3
BDS - 307	Bangladesh Studies	(3+0) =3
Total		13
Third Year Third Semester
TE- 308	Apparel Manufacturing – II with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 309	Engineering Economics	(3+0) =3
TE- 310	Textile Mill Utilities	(3+0) = 3
TE- 311	Quality Control in Textile with lab	(2+1) = 3
Total		13
Fourth Year First Semester
TE- 401	Yarn Manufacturing – III with lab / Fabric Manufacturing – III with lab / Textile Coloration -III with lab / Apparel Manufacturing – III with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 402	Hi-tech Textiles	(3+0) =3
BUC-403	Business Communication	3
Total		10
Fourth Year Second Semester
TE-404	Yarn Manufacturing – IV with lab / Fabric Manufacturing - IV with lab / Textile Coloration - IV with lab / Apparel Manufacturing – IV with lab	(3+1) = 4
TE- 405	Textile production evaluation-II with lab	(3+1) =4
TE- 406	Textile production Management	(3+0) =3
TE-407	Project (Thesis)	(0+3) =3
Total		14
Fourth Year Third Semester
TE – 408	Textile Finishing with lab	(3+1) =4
TE-409	Textile & Environment	(3+0) =3
TE – 410	Industrial Attachment	(0+3) =3
TE- 411	Comprehensive Viva	(0+2) =2
Total		12
Grand Total		151

Edited by S C O Ugbolue, University of Massachusetts, USA

Woodhead Textiles Series No. 82

- reviews the most important polyolefins including polyethylene and polyproplene, their structural and chemical properties as well as production methods
- examines methods to improve the functionality of polyolefin fibres including production methods and quality control

Polyolefins are one of the most widely used commercial polymers. This book reviews the most important polyolefins, including polyethylene and polypropylene. These versatile fibres are durable, chemically resistant, lightweight, economical and functional. Polyolefin fibres: industrial and medical applications provides a comprehensive review of the structure and properties of this group of fibres, together with methods to improve the functionality of polyolefins and their range of applications.

The first set of chapters discusses the different types of polyolefins, their structural and chemical properties as well as their production methods. The second group of chapters examines how to improve the functionality of polyolefin fibres. A final group of chapters addresses how polyolefins can be incorporated into specific applications such as industrial, medical and automotive products.

Written by a distinguished team of international contributors, Polyolefin fibres: industrial and medical applications is a quintessential reference for textile technologists, fibre scientists, yarn and fabric manufacturers and also those in academia.

Water recycling presents a global challenge to the textile wet processing industry, which, like many industries using large volumes of water, produces an effluent requiring specialist treatment before discharge. Recycling of aqueous dyehouse effluent is of growing interest as the cost of water and effluent treatment rises and water becomes an increasingly scarce resource. In this innovative book, contributions to the subject have been provided by a range of experienced international authors. Many case studies are included describing examples of different water recycling systems on specific sites, illustrating practical application of the techniques being discussed. Each chapter is an individual approach by an authority from a particular country. Diversity of discussion has been encouraged, yet despite this range of views, the reader will be impressed by how frequently common conclusions are drawn to different aspects of the subject.

The resources listed in this guide are located in the Business Centre, 3rd floor, Toronto Reference Library. Complementary materials may also be found at the North York Central Library and local branches of the Toronto Public Library.


* Canadian Apparel Directory. Ste.-Anne-de- Bellvue, Quebec: Canadian Textile Journal. Annual. 338.47687 C12
Contains listings of suppliers, manufacturers and designers of the Canadian apparel industry.

* Canadian Footwear Journal: Shoemaking Buyers' Guide. Toronto: McLeish Communications. Annual. 338.47685 F59
Special issue of Canadian Footwear Journal published in February/March. Comprehensive listing of Canada's footwear and handbag manufacturers, importers, and distributers, and of suppliers to the shoe manufacturing industry.

* Davison's Textile Blue Book. Ridgewood, N.J.: Davison Publishing Co. Annual. 1.5 D135
Geographical listings of mills, dyers and finishers in the U.S. and Canada. Entries include address, telephone number, executives, products and services. Includes advertisers buyers' guide.

* Style: Buyers’ Guide Issue.. Toronto: Maclean Hunter. Annual. 338.47687 S768
Special issue of Style published in August/September. Directory of women’s wear, fashion accessories, and textile manufacturers and importers in Canada. Brand names are listed alphabetically by product category and cross-referenced with company.

* Textile Manual. Montreal, Que.: Canadian Textile Journal Inc. Annual. 1.5 M12
Special Issue of Canadian Textile Journal published in July. Reference guide for the Canadian textile industry. Contains statistical charts, a buyers' guide to products and services, a directory of Canadian textile mills, plus membership lists of textile associations.

* Textile World Buyers' Guide. Atlanta, GA: McGraw-Hill. 1.5 T2682
A special issue of the periodical Textile World. Lists manufacturers and suppliers to the clothing industry.

I've been dying to dye my own yarn for months now. I've been a knitter for many years and the beautiful yarns that are available now inspire me to create my own. I finally did it, and documented the process here.

All items used here should NOT also be used to prepare food.

Materials you will need:
Yarn - I got mine at Dharma Trading, 75% wool, 25% nylon fingering weight (sock yarn)
Dye - I used Jacquard Acid Dyes
Distilled white vinegar
Synthrapol (available at arts & crafts stores; I got mine at AC Moore) or Dawn dishwashing liquid
Dust mask
Gloves
Small tub for soaking
Colander
Plastic wrap - my sources recommended brand name (thicker ply)
Measuring cup
Measuring spoons - plastic or stainless
Little containers for the dye
Sponge brushes
Sprinkler or spray bottle
Microwave oven (ideally an extra one, not one you use to cook food in)