CUTTING THE PATTERN AND FABRIC

After your pattern is correctly fitted, you are ready to make your pants. Your first step will be to read the pattern guide sheet and study the pattern layout. After you are familiar with the pattern, carefully follow the instructions given on the guide sheet.

Cut out your pattern only after the fabric has been prewashed or preshrunk. Prewashing allows the fabric to relax and removes excess fabric resins that can cause problems as you sew.

Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric as the pattern guide sheet layout suggests. Be sure to follow the "with nap" layout if your fabric has nap.

After the pattern has been cut, take time to press a crease in the front of each pants leg if required. Use the pattern markings to determine where the creases should be. Stop the crease at the crotch. To ensure a firm crease, use a damp cloth and steam. Remember, it is difficult to remove creases set in synthetic fabric, so be sure to get them in the right places.

PANTS CONSTRUCTION

Follow the guide sheet as you sew the pants. The order will generally be as follows: stay-stitching, seam finishes (if necessary), darts, inner and side leg seams, crotch seam, zipper, waistband, and hems.

Fitting Your Pants

After the pants have been sewn together, but before the zipper is applied, try on your pants. Pin the opening and tie a string snugly around your waistline to hold the pants up (fig. 7).

Observing the fit in a full-length mirror, adjust the pants from the waistline until the legs hang straight and the crotch is comfortably positioned. Be sure the positions of the grainline and darts are correct. Then mark the waistline directly under the string and determine the amount the darts and side seams need to be taken in or let out to achieve a good fit at the waistline.

If you make any changes, mark them on the pattern so it will be correct the next time you use it.

Pressing

Press as you sew to achieve the best results. Press the seams open, using steam to keep them flat. To prevent the seams from creating an impression on the right side, place a piece of paper under the seam allowance as it is pressed.

ALTERING YOUR PATTERN

Waistline

To increase: Add 1/4 the total alteration required at each side seam. (Fig. 8)

To decrease: Remove 1/4 of the total alteration required at each side seam. (Fig. 9)

Leg Shape

To increase leg circumference: Place a piece of paper under the front and back pattern pieces. Add 1/4 the total increase to the inseam and outer seam of both front and back pieces. To do this, mark the addition outside the cutting lines at the hemline. Redraw cutting lines from marks at hemline, tapering to original cutting line at the desired point.

To decrease leg circumference: Remove 1/4 the total decrease from the inseam and outer seam of both front and back pieces. To do this, mark the decrease inside the cutting lines at the hemline. Redraw the cutting lines from the marks at the hemline, tapering to the original cutting line at the desired point.

Length

To increase: Cut the pattern apart on length adjustment lines. Place tissue paper under pattern and spread the amount needed, keeping edges parallel. Pin or tape in place. Redraw seams and cutting lines.

To decrease: Measure the amount needed up from length adjustment lines and draw a line. Fold pattern on adjustment line and bring up to drawn line. Pin or tape in place. Redraw seams and cutting lines.

Crotch Depth

To lengthen: Cut pattern apart on adjustment line. Place tissue paper under cut areas and spread pattern needed amount, keeping edges parallel. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting and seam lines. (Fig. 10)

To shorten crotch depth: Measure the amount needed up from adjustment line and draw a line across pattern. Fold pattern along adjustment line and bring it up to drawn line. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting and seam lines. (Fig. 11)

Crotch Length

To lengthen: Add to front and/or back inner leg seams by extending seam at crotch point. Redraw crotch curve from adjustment line to new crotch point on inner leg seam. Redraw inseam from new crotch point to the knee. (Fig. 12)

To shorten: Mark amount needed inside cutting line on front and/or back inner leg seams. Redraw crotch curve from adjustment line to new crotch point on inner leg seam. Redraw inseam from new crotch point to the knee. (Fig. 13)

Hips

To increase: Pin or tape tissue paper under front and back pattern pieces along side seams. On both front and back pieces, mark 1/4 the total increase outside cutting lines along side seams. Draw new seam line. Adjust waistline as needed to achieve correct size. (Fig. 14)

To decrease: On both front and back pieces, mark 1/4 the total decrease inside cutting lines along side seams. Adjust waistline as needed to achieve correct size. Redraw seamline and trim off excess pattern paper. (Fig. 15)

Thighs

To increase: Pin or tape tissue paper under front and back pattern pieces along both inseams and outer seams. Mark 1/4 the total addition along the side seams and inseams outside the cutting lines. Draw new cutting line through markings along side seam from hip, tapering into original cutting line near hem. On inseam, start new cutting line at crotch point and redraw cutting line, tapering back to original cutting line near hem. (Fig. 16)

To decrease: On both front and back pattern pieces, mark 1/4 the total decrease inside cutting lines of side seams and inseams. On the side seams, draw new cutting line through markings from hip, tapering to original cutting line near hem. On inseams, redraw new cutting line beginning at crotch point, tapering to original cutting line near hem. (Fig. 17)

Abdomen (Adjust pants front pattern piece only.)

To increase: Draw a line parallel to the grainline through the center of waist dart from waist to hem. Draw a horizontal line about 3-4" below waistline from center front to side. Cut pattern apart on lines, then place paper under pattern. On the horizontal slash, spread the pattern the necessary amount at center front and taper to no spread at side seam. Spread vertical cut 1/2 the total increase, tapering to no spread at hem. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting lines, seamlines, and darts as needed. (Fig. 18)

Buttocks (Adjust pants back pattern piece only.)

To increase: Draw a line parallel to grainline through center of waist dart to hem. At hipline, draw a horizontal line across pattern from center back to side. Cut pattern apart on lines, then place paper under pattern. On the horizontal line, spread the pattern the necessary amount from center back, tapering to no spread at sideseam. Spread vertical cut 1/2 the total increase, tapering to nothing at hem. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting lines, seamlines, and darts as needed. (Fig. 19)

To decrease buttocks: Draw a line parallel to grainline through center of waist dart to hem. Just above the hipline, draw a horizontal line from center back to side. Along the horizontal line, fold a tuck to remove the desired amount at center back, tapering to no tuck at side. Along the vertical line, fold a tuck to remove 1/2 the desired decrease. Pin or tape in place. Redraw cutting lines, seamlines, and darts as needed (Fig. 20).