Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles Specialist
College of Agriculture, Consumer and Environmental Sciences New Mexico State University
This publication is scheduled to be updated and reissued 6/06.

Women's fashions come and go, but pants are here to stay. Although the basic shape may change from season to season, pants have become a favorite fashion for women of all ages and for all kinds of activities.

Every woman who wears pants wants them to look good and feel comfortable when she stands, sits, and walks. Three key factors contribute to successful dressing in pants: style, fabric, and fit.
KEYS TO SUCCESSFUL PANTS
Style

The first key is knowing which pants styles to avoid and which styles to use with your figure type. Pants styles fall into three basic silhouettes-fitted, straight, and flared. The silhouette you select should be flattering to your figure type.

Seams, darts, gathers, and pleats may be used to shape the silhouette and create a horizontal or vertical illusion in the pants design. Other design details include pockets, yokes, trim of any kind, and the waistline treatment. Select pants that have a flattering silhouette as well as flattering design features.
Follow these basic guidelines for selecting a flattering pant style:

S Shorter-than-average figures look taller when pants and top are the same color.

S A tall person looks shorter if the pants and top are different colors or textures.

S Wide legs create an illusion of fullness.

S Fitted legs are unflattering for the too-thin as well as for the too-full figure.

S Flared legs are flattering to tall, slender figures.

S Straight legs are a good choice for the figure with full thighs or a prominent derriere.

S Gathers or pleats at the waistline emphasize a protruding abdomen.

S If you have a very curvy figure, select a style that has two waistline darts on each side of center front and back. Avoid a side zipper opening.

S Avoid hip-hugger styles if you have full thighs and/or prominent hips.
Fabric Selection

The second key to attractive pants is correct fabric selection. Denim, sports cloth, corduroy, velveteen, gabardine, and a variety of medium-weight blends are suitable for pants. The fabric should be firmly woven to hold its shape and wear well. It should drape over the figure gracefully and should have good wrinkle resistance. Knits are usually a good choice for comfort, but the weight of the knit determines its success as a pants fabric. Avoid soft, clingy knits for most pants fashions-they emphasize figure flaws.

Consider fabric texture and design carefully. Some textured fabrics will be scratchy and require a lining; others will be too bulky for pants.

Select plaids and prints with color and size of plaid or print in mind. The appropriateness of a printed fabric for pants should also be considered.

White and light-colored fabrics may require a lining or underlining to prevent undergarments and seam allowances from showing through. Be certain the fabric selected for lining or underlining has the same care requirements as the fashion fabric.
Fit

Fit is the third key to pants comfort and attractive appearance. Pants should fit comfortably at the waistline and fall smoothly over the hips and thighs. In well-fitted pants, the lengthwise grainline is perpendicular to the floor and creases in the legs are on the straight grain. Pants length will vary according to the silhouette.

Some problems to avoid when making (or buying) pants include:

S Ripples at the waistline.

S Wrinkles at the crotch.

S Bagginess at the crotch.

S Waistline pulling down at center back or center front.

S Pressed creases that hang off-grain.

Avoid pants that are too tight. Not only are they uncomfortable, but they also accentuate figure flaws.

SELECTING A PATTERN SIZE

If you are making pants for the first time (or for the hundredth time), the pattern size you select will be important in altering the pattern for an attractive fit. Because fit at the hip is difficult to alter, select a pattern size according to measurements at the fullest part of your hips, usually 8-9" below the waistline.
FITTING YOUR PATTERN

Because patterns are designed for standard figures and because most of us are not very "standard" in size or shape, always fit your pattern before cutting. You will also need to fit the pattern because patterns vary in fit from design to design as well as from one brand of pattern to another.

What is your figure type? Some figures are full from front to back; others are wide from side to side. Some are round in front, while others are round in back. Your posture also contributes to your figure type. Because figure types vary, be aware of your own variations to help you fit your pants more successfully.

To determine your figure variations, stand in front of a full-length mirror and study your figure.

Posture Type (Fig. 1)
Check the one that looks most like you.

Average. Stands fairly straight. Side seams of pants fall straight and are lined up with the ankle.

Forward-tilted hip. Stands in somewhat slouched manner; fairly flat, low seat, and a high prominent roll below the front waist or high prominent hip bones. This posture causes pants to sag under the seat unless the pattern is altered.
Backward-tilted hip. Stands with tummy lower and posterior out and up. Pants hike up over the seat if the pattern crotch length is not corrected.

Hip Type (Fig. 2)

Check the one that looks most like you.

Average hip. No excessive roundness directly below the waist at sides or back. There is no great sidethigh prominence. The greatest circumference measurement is at the seat level, usually 7-9" below waist.

Little difference. Little difference between hip and waist measurement; generally doesn't have curves below the waist.

Heart hip. Great roundness just below the waist. The upper hip measurement taken 3-4" below the waist will be larger than the measurement at the seat level.

Semi-heart hip. Curves below the waistline may not appear to be as extreme as the heart shape. The lower hip circumference may be the same or up to 1 1/2" more than the measurements taken 3-4" below the waistline. There is no thigh prominence.

Diamond hip. Great thigh prominence at the side. The difference between the waist and lower hip measurements is 11 1/2" or more.

Rounded diamond hip. Great prominence at the sides as well as curves just below the waistline. This sometimes makes the difference between the waist and hip much less than a standard diamond.After determining your figure variations, take your measurements and compare them with the measurements of your pattern. Measure over the undergarments you will wear with the pants. Have someone help you take the measurements listed on the following chart.

Take your body measurements (fig. 3) and record them on the chart on the next page.
TO BE CONTINUE...................